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Thomas Huber

Thomas Huber, the elder one of the two Huber brothers, is a dreamer that can easily be enthralled; an idealist, slightly chaotic, but not phlegmatic - and he seems a bit more easy going than his brother Alexander. Thomas Huber has been a professional climber and mountaineer since 1996 and lives in Berchtesgaden together with his wife Marion and his sons Elias and Amadeus and his daughter Philomea.

Even though Thomas did not show too much interest in mountains in the beginning and instead preferred to go fishing, he was then drawn to them by his father - himself a passionate climber, who made a name for himself in the climbing scene by some early and fast climbs of routes in the Western Alps. Together with his brother Alexander and his father, he climbed 30 four-thousand-meters peaks in the Western Alps. Later on, the “Huberbuam” started to discover the Alps by themselves. No matter if repetitions or first climbs in the whole Alpine region, sport climbing or ice climbing - the repertoire of Thomas is wide and his passion for mountains nearly unlimited.

Thomas can look back at an impressive number of first climbs. Among others the first redpoint climb of the “end of silence” in the year 1994 and the freeclimb of the “Salathé” (5.13b/8a+) in Yosemite in 1996. One year later, he discovered high-altitude mountaineering and for the first time climbed the Wesface of the Latok II (7108 m) together with Alexander, Toni Gutsch and Conrad Anker. In 1998, Thomas masters „El Nino“ /5.13/8a+) at the El Capitan and the redpoint climb „Freerider“(5.12d/7c).

After 15 hours and 25 minutes, this was the first freeclimb of the El Capitan route in one day. In 2000, he managed to climb one of the most spectacular routes in the Himalayas, the 1000-meter high North pillar of the Shivling (6543 m). In the same year, he was the first one to accomplish the new freeclimbing route „Golden Gate“ (5.13b) at the El Capitan. In 2001, two more extraordinary trips followed: On July 1st, the first climb of the Ogre III (6800 m) and three weeks later, on July 21st, the second climb of the Ogre (7285 m).

In 2003, the Huber brothers surprised the climbing elite with the fastest climb of a big wall ever: In 2:31,20 hours, they „ran up“ the classic „Zodiac“, 80% of which they freeclimbed and the rest artificially (A3). They used the „short-fixed technique“ which, however, is only reserved for absolute professionals. Even when Thomas is not actually climbing, the mountains are still always a part of him. Besides climbing, he also has a passion for B.A.S.E.-Jumping! Thomas Huber is also involved in some social projects: Together with his brother Alexander, he supports and is an honorary member of the association "Himalaya-Karakorum-Hilfe e.V." which helps people in need from the Himalayas and Karakorum region.


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