Mammut presents six ‘rock classics’ — milestones in the history of sports climbing. And the people who climbed them for the first time, revisiting their own routes accompanied by top climbers from the Mammut Pro Team. This Episode: Babsy Bacher
THE FACE 8A+ | SCHNELLNECKKOPF, ALTMÜHLTAL
The face is the mirror of the soul, a wise man once said. Does the face hiding in the light forests of the Altmühltal reflect the soul of the Southern Frankenjura? In any case, the two eyes have been watching the goings-on in the valley for many millennia …
Jerry couldn’t get enough though. He always wanted more! Therefore, Wolfgang took him to the Altmühltal, showed him the »Flipper« project »Face«, and Jerry was enthusiastic about the vertical, smoothly-rejecting rock pillar at the Schellneck. After he had abseiled down into the route, cleaned the holds and drilled in the necessary bolts, he set out. Up to the undercling traverse using down-sloping finger holes, then long pulls to a large pocket and finally up to the »face«. The sequences around the »face« were hardest for Jerry. He often fell into the rope – and had to return to the ground.
Bouldering out in the rope (= hangdogging) was strictly scorned by the British climbing ethics – the devil is a hangdogger! The »yoyo style«, however, permitted leaving the rope in the highest bolt reached and climbing top rope to the section of the fall; every new unknown metre, however, became a new onsight problem. On his second day, Jerry almost reached the top when a sharp-edged one-finger hole cut his finger deeply: fall and out!
After two weeks, the finger was healed, but no one from the group wanted to come to the Altmühltal with Jerry to try the »face« again.
Explore more of the Golden Age of Rock Climbing!